Low level deck design questions/decking layout
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Posted 6/19/2006 2:33:29 PM Post #1675
 

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I am in the process of designing a free-standing, low-level deck.  I would like to use 2x8's for the joists, 16" on center, and doubled 2x8's for the beams (that would sit in brackets directly on top of the concrete piers).  The joists would be attached to the beams using joist hangers so that the total height of the deck would be just 8.5" + 2" ground clearance.  I used Lowe's online deck design tool and it only has the ability to generate a design that has the joists on top of the beams rather than attached with joist hangars.  Is a deck built using joist hangers as strong as a deck built with the joists attached to the top of the beams?  I'm figuring on a max joist span of 10' and due to the size of the deck I can't find a way to build it without a beam down the center and doubling the number of joist hangers I have to buy.  Is there any way around this?  Also, what is the most graceful way to align the 2x6 decking boards on top of the joists when working with a max length of 16' cedar?  If I run the joists and decking the other way does this create any advantage?  Also, what is the spacing between the piers for proper beam support?  Any other suggestions?  Please see the attached jpeg for deck dimensions.  Thanks in advance,

Erin

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Deckdesign.jpg (150 views, 85.48 KB)

Posted 6/20/2006 7:59:10 AM Post #1683
 

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Hi Erin, thanks for your question and using the forum.

My responses are in red:

Is a deck built using joist hangers as strong as a deck built with the joists attached to the top of the beams?

Decks can be built using girter style beams (joists resting on beam) or using flush inset or header beam styles. Each design is equal to each other in strength. Most builders use girter style because it tends to be less labor to frame and uses less joist hangers.

I'm figuring on a max joist span of 10' and due to the size of the deck I can't find a way to build it without a beam down the center and doubling the number of joist hangers I have to buy.  Is there any way around this? 

I reviewed your design and based on your current layout you will have to place a center flush inset beam. 2x8 joists should not span much beyond the 10' mark at 16" on center. Joist hangers are inexpensive compared to using larger heavier lumber to increase the span capability. Reducing the overall deck size or using larger joists will change your beam requirements but the trade off may not be an option for you.

Also, what is the most graceful way to align the 2x6 decking boards on top of the joists when working with a max length of 16' cedar? 

With your joist layout per your sketch you have three options to run the cedar decking. One is parallel to the house or at 45 degrees to the house in right or lefthand directions. In either case plan on having the decking joints fall 1/2 way on a joist. The joints should be staggered so you don't repeat a joint on ajoining decking courses. This will be much like installing a hardwood floor. The staggered joints add strength to the entire system.

Plan on cutting the ends of the decking where to boards butt at a joint. This way the joint is as tight as possible. Don't rely on the factory ends to be accurate enough.

 If I run the joists and decking the other way does this create any advantage?

No, most contractors want to run the joists along the shortest run which you have. Running along the longest run adds more framing details.

 Also, what is the spacing between the piers for proper beam support? 

If you are using doubled 2x8's for beams I would plan on a maximum spacing of 6.5'

One more item. Plan on installing 2x8 bridging blocks on a centerline half way between your beam locations between each joist. These blocks add allot of strength to the system.

You can find allot of information I dicussed in the "articles" section on the decks.com home page. Check it out.

Thanks for your questions

Anderson Pro Carpentry

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